We want to make the DIY installation of your closet as simple and hassle-free as possible. That’s why we have created a numbering system so that you may identify the different assembly parts needed for each unit of your closet. We also do as much as possible in our shop like cut your hanger cleat to closet length and assemble the drawers. Wood Closet Designs also provides you with detailed drawings of each individual unit of your closet to further assist you with the installation.
Understanding your closet and the installation
- In your installation packet, you will see a detailed floor plan as well as a top view with each unit of your closet labeled with a specific number. Those numbered units correspond with stickers placed on components of your custom cut closet such as shelves, rods, drawers etc. These numbers are used so that you may know exactly which component of your closet belongs in the correct place. For example, You purchase a 24” wide double hanger unit (DHS124) and it is labeled with a “1” in your floor plan. In the packages of your closet, you will find two 24” wide shelves labeled with a “1”, and two 24” long hanger rods labeled with a “1”. Any component labeled with a “1” will be used to fully assemble unit “1” of your floor plan. Refer to the floor plans to know which components are used in which units.
- All the sides are the same and can be placed and hung interchangeably unless otherwise noted.
- Some hardware components, such as drawer glides and cam shelves, have specific locations where they must go. These locations are detailed in the drawings for each individual unit. Shelves that are not cam locked, i.e. adjustable shelves, can be placed anywhere suiting your preference using the adjustable pins.
- Please read the following steps thoroughly and carefully as our fixed lifetime warranty is based upon following the correct installation procedures. Feel free to contact us if you have any questions regarding your closet and the installation. Failure to follow the proper installation procedures will void the warranty.
Tools needed for installation
- #2 Phillips Screw Driver - Step Ladder
- Tape Measure - Stud Finder
- Power Drill
Attaching the hanger cleat to the wall
This will be the most important step of the installation for your closet. Make sure to read and follow directions carefully. Hanger cleats are already cut to size and should be labeled with a letter indicating what wall it should be attached to, according to the floor plans.
- Hanger Cleat Height. First, we must determine the height on the wall that we want to attach the cleat. We recommend the bottom of the cleat to be at 75 ½ inches from the floor. This would make the top of your closet 84 inches tall. You may adjust these dimensions if needed due to insufficient space or personal preference.
- Level Line. Mark several areas at 75 1/2 inches along your wall where the hanger cleat will be located. Using a level, trace along those marks so that you will have a straight, level line where the bottom of the cleat will be placed when ready to attach.
- Locating Studs. Now we must find and mark the underlying studs that we will anchor our cleat to. This is most easily done with a stud finder but can be done other ways. TIP: Normal 2” x 4” studs are found 16” apart from center to center. Mark all the locations of the studs on your wall where you intend to place the cleat for your closet.
- Marking Holes for Toggle Bolts. In the case that the end of the hanger cleat does not land within 3” of a stud, toggle bolts and anchors will be needed to attach the ends securely to the drywall. Using the drill bit followed by the countersink bit (both provided), drill a hole near the end of the cleat all the way through. Make sure to drill far enough into the cleat with the countersink bit to bore a large enough hole to hide the screw head when finished. Next, place the bottom of your cleat along the line drawn on the wall and mark the locations on the wall where the toggle anchors will go, using the holes at the ends of the cleat that were just drilled as a guide. Set the cleat aside.
- Attaching Toggle Bolts. Examine your toggle bolts closely so that you may understand how they work. Using a power drill, slowly drill toggle anchors into the marked locations at the ends of where the cleat will go. Make sure the arrows on the toggle anchor are pointing up and down. Next, hold the hanger cleat up to the wall in the correct location and place toggle bolts through the cleat and into the hole of the anchor. Tap the bolt head with a phillips head screwdriver to open the flange. Now using that same phillips head screwdriver, tighten the bolt head until the cleat is secured firmly to the wall, be careful to not overtighten. DO NOT use a power driver to install the toggle bolt into the anchor as you may cause stripping or damage to the drywall. These toggle bolts are meant for drywall ½” to 5/8”.
- Screwing into Studs. The majority of support needed to securely fasten your hanger cleat comes from attaching it to the studs. We have included screws meant for standard wood studs but those can be substituted if you are drilling into concrete block wall or metal studs. Relocate where you marked your studs along the hanger cleat. Using a power drill and the drill bits that we have provided, drill holes through the wood hanger cleat in the locations of the studs. Make sure to drill far enough into the cleat so that the countersink bit on the drill bit will bore a big enough hole to hide the screw head when finished. Replace the drill bit with a phillips head bit and follow through those pilot holes with the screws you are using to attach to the stud. Make sure that the hanger cleat is straight and level against the wall so that the rest of the closet may be installed square and plum. Any wall that is bowing out or has shallow areas must be shimmed so the hanger cleat is straight. You can discover if your wall is straight by using one of our vertical sides or a level as a straight edge to compare the wall to. Failure to create a straight hanger cleat will cause difficulty installing the rest of your closet.
- Hanging the Vertical Sides. Once you have attached the cleat to as many studs as possible, you may begin to hang the vertical sides. Using a tape measure and your wall layout plan, hang the sides in their general location. From here, the rest of the installation is a breeze! Simply follow our basic instructions listed below as well as the detailed drawings for each unit and you will have a beautiful, custom closet to enjoy in no time.
Basic Instructions for Custom Components
These basic installation instructions are to assist you in the assembly of your custom components such as shelves, hangers, drawers, doors, etc. Please refer to your detailed drawings for information on placement of the hardware. Note that if your closet system has a corner unit, installation must begin with that unit to ensure proper fit.
- Cam shelves are a type of shelf that locks into place using screws and cam locks. You will be able to identity a cam shelf by the 4 holes drilled ¾ of the way through the bottom side of your shelf. Using a hammer or mallet, lightly tap the cam locks into the holes in the shelf making sure the open end of the cam lock is facing out so that it may receive the cam screw. In your detailed drawings of each unit, we will tell you where you should place your cam screws. Using a power drill with a #2 phillips bit, screw 2 of the cam screws into each side where the cam shelf will be placed. Now the cam shelf is ready to be placed onto the cam screws. Turn the cam locks clockwise for a half of a turn using a phillips head screw driver. These cam shelves are vital because they help provide the strength and stability for your closet system.
- Our hangers use special holes and can be positioned in two different ways for most of our closet units. To install a hanger unit, place wardrobe tub cups into place and screw to the side using the hardware provided. Slip in the wardrobe tube and you are finished.
- Locate where to screw the basket slides in by using you detailed drawing for the units with baskets. After the slides have been attached, pull the inner sections of both slides until they are fully extended toward you. Now the basket is ready to be placed on top of the slides and some light down pressure will clip them into place.
- Drawers come fully assembled so all you must do is screw the drawer slides into place. Where to screw the slides in will be found in your drawings. After they have been installed, simply set the drawer on top of the track for the slides and push it close until you hear a click.
- Adjustable Shelves can be used in many configurations or not at all. Our suggested location of the adjustable shelves can be found in the detailed drawings. To keep the adjustable shelves from sliding around, tap the top of the shelf in the areas where it is resting on the pins.
- Shoe shelves require you to the insert the shoe fence into the shelf. This is most easily done by lightly pounding the fence into place with a rubber mallet. If a mallet is not available, then a normal hammer will be fine but a protective barrier such as a towel is needed so that the metal hammer does not damage the shoe fence. Shoe shelves have cam locks in the front and sit on adjustable pins in the back. Refer to your drawings for placements of the cam screws and pins.
- Detailed instructions for the assembly of corner units will be found in the pages of and your detailed drawings. Corner Units must be installed first and each wall built out from there. If two corner units share a wall on one of their sides, a variable width unit between the corners will need to be cut to the correct width to ensure proper fit.
- Detailed instructions for the assembly of hampers will be found in the pages of your detailed drawings. The hamper door can be aligned by adjusting the screws on the hinge plate.
- Detailed instructions of assembly of the shoe tower will be found in the pages of your detailed drawings.
- Detailed instructions for the assembly of doors will be found in the pages of your detailed drawings. Doors can be aligned by adjusting the screws on the hinge plate.
- The black metal L-brackets will be used at the end of installation and are there to help stabilize the units as a whole. Find a stud to anchor to and attach the L-bracket to the bottom shelf of a unit. We recommend at least one L-bracket per wall.